“It all started in Delfina. The way she twists FENDI is chic and perverse, which is what I love.” — King Jones

In her Autumn/Winter 2023 collection, Kim Jones explores classicism and elegance through the lens of subtle subversion. Borrowing directly from Delfina Delettrez Fendi’s wardrobe – how she wore her FENDI archive with a visceral sense of self-expression – this is a collection that plays with binary: deconstructed exploration and ascension; The insertion of gender archetypes; The interruption of ladylike manners. The illusion of insoucance is elegantly constructed, and the pieces are designed to be worn in a variety of ways.

Masculine cuts and traditional fabrics are twisted into feminine forms, while utilitarian elements are found throughout: jumpsuits, aprons, uniforms. The lace is painted and layered; The fetish glitter is in underwear or thigh-high lace-up boots.

The clean-cut mac opens with glitter lining; Diagonal cut draping dress or Persian lamb bib with drawstring design.

From the perfect punk perspective, the knitwear looks crisp or slightly curvy. Felt wool slightly shrunk, ribbed knitwear unbuttoned, or worn and skewed. A satin dress with a twisted drape dragged romantically with a flowing scarf. “It’s deconstructed, but luxurious. There’s a little bit of a nod to punk, my admiration for DIY, but turning to something chic, “explains Kim Jones. “Delfina’s first day at work, she was wearing blue and brown and I thought she looked great. The way she twists FENDI is chic and perverse, which is what I love.”

The brand’s history is reborn in a seamless Mosaic of patterns from the FENDI archive for autumn/winter 1996, and inspired by Karl Lagerfeld’s 1981 sketch of a versatile knitwear.

With the launch of a new handbag, the FENDI Multi, Silvia Venturini Fendi pays tribute to the brand’s innate versatile sensibility, with a shape that has been carefully designed to switch between two very different styles. “I think what’s really good is the movement of the bag, which can combine two things into one,” she reflects. “This duality is FENDI’s style – so is the idea of something that seems simple but is actually very complex.” Other pieces, like the newly conceived FENDI C’mon, also draw on assumed simplicity: “The idea was to create very pure pieces that complemented the sophistication of the collection,” she said.

This is exactly the same spirit embodied in the jewelry designed by Delfina Delettrez Fendi.

“I wanted to explore the purity of the double F, locking the ears,” she explains. “Like the collection, it gets to the heart of FENDI.”

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